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Pinning
By Assistant Doc Gorthag
Skullcrusher
Generally speaking, pinning models is too much of a
bother to use on rank and file troops, but it is an absolute necessity on large
models, and especially necessary on metal wings that are any longer than an inch
or so. Most people use special pins, and a pin vise hand drill, but about a year
ago I learned a much easier, faster, and sturdier way of doing this, using 2
very simple tools - a slow speed Dremel and paper clips :) A 1/16 drill bit
works perfectly with standard Jumbo paper clips. Obviously, you can't use this
on small pieces, but small pieces don't really need pinning anyway, unless
you're planning on dropping your models a lot. Once you figure out exactly what
angle to drill the pin holes, hold the model FIRMLY and start drilling - the
drill bit might try to skip around a little, it will take a little practice to
get used to using the Dremel like this. Drill slowly, and pull the bit out
repeatedly to clear any lead/pewter that might be stuck in the drillbit grooves.
Don't hold the model too close to where you are drilling, it will get very hot.
Also, the bit might start jamming if you try to drill more than about 1/8-3/16
inch deep. If the bit jams, do NOT let go of the model - hold it and the Dremel
firmly while you turn the dremel off with a spare finger - you'll get used to
this very quickly, since models spinning on the end of the Dremel tend to hurt
both you and the model. Work the bit out very carefully - it will be hot as
well, and you will probably break many bits - get used to it. Thanks to an
unfortunate streak of luck, I broke 3 bits on my last dragon. If the tip of a
bit breaks off in your model, you'll need to work it out with a pair of
tweezers, or needlenose pliers. If the break is too deep, just leave the tip
inside and try to find another spot to pin close by. Generally, a single pin is
plenty for each join spot, you could use two on large joins however. After you
drill one side of the pin spot, stick the end of the paper clip into the hole,
and judge how large to clip it off. Then, with the clipped off piece in the
hole, put the joining piece up against it - the two pieces will not fit
together, of course, but if you have them lined up just right, the end of your
pin will be pressing into the spot you need to drill. Drill the hole in the
second piece, and try to fit them together with the pin to see if you judged the
holes right. If you're off a little, you can widen up one of the holes as needed
for a tight fit. Without widening, the hole will be just big enough for the pin,
with glue, and a slight bit of room for adjusting. One important note - drill
ALL of your holes before your start gluing the pieces together, or you might
weaken/break some of the glue bonds while you're holding the model tightly for
drilling. When gluing, place a small drop of glue at the entrance of each
hole, and small amounts along the rest of the join surface, then insert the pin
in one piece and join the second piece to the first. Once the glue bonds are
fully set, the model will be VERY sturdy - for example, on the large lead and
pewter dragons I paint, roughly 8-10 inches long, with 3-5 inch wings, I feel
completely comfortable picking them up by simply grabbing a wing and lifting -
no sudden twists or yanks of course, but the bond is easily strong enough to
lift the whole model.
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