The figures were primed black. This will give a dark base for these "evil" figures. Also, anyplace that is left unpainted will show black, which can be used to create shadows, and cover spots that accidentally get missed (like small deep details).

All of the fleshy areas were first painted using an ivy green color, because I wanted a dark green base. When this was completely dry, I did a "wash" of black. This will help darken the green further, especially in the shadowed areas.

A wash can be done with watered down paint, or a commercially made "wash" or ink (like GW, RP, or Coat d'arms) When thinning out the wash, a tiny bit of dish soap can be added to help break the surface tension of the water. There are also specially made acrylic thinners available, though I have not used these.

When the black wash was completely done, I highlighted with flesh. The first step was to use the original green to paint over all of the raised areas, except those immediately under another part of the figure that would create a shadow. I then mixed a little big of "goblin green" in with the original ivy green. Just enough so there was a slight difference in color. I used this color to go back over the raised areas, but not painting as much of it as the previous highlight. I then added a little more goblin green to the mix, and highlighted further, and repeated until I had a nice gradual transition from the shadows to the brightest extremities.

When highlighting like this, it is important to make the change in color at least moderately gradual (there's about 5 layers on these). Also, keep the paint fairly thin. You want it mostly opaque, but you do not want it to "build up" and show thickness.

First I painted the eyes and teeth with antique white. I then added a red dot to the eyes (pupil/iris).

I painted the armor, shield, and helmets with a dark copper. When this was done I did a black wash .

In "Step 1" I used thinned black paint (personal preference). For this step I used a commercial "black wash", though black ink would have been good as well. I wanted the wash to stain and darken the copper, not just run into the recesses.

I highlighted the copper pieces. First with the original copper, then with antique gold, and finally with a bright gold.
 

I painted the cloak and loincloth on the left, and the pants on the right dark burgundy. I painted the pants on the left medium blue.

Both figures have a sash across their chests. I first painted these barbarian leather (aka snakebite leather). I then highlighted with a mix of the original color and golden harvest. The runes on the sash were painted dark crimson.

I highlighted the cloth from dark burgundy to cardinal crimson using the same method as on the flesh (about 4 or 5 layers of color, including the base).  The runes on the sashes were also brightened with a coat of cardinal crimson.

The fringe on the loincloth, and the checks on the back of the cloak were painted using the same barbarian leather/golden harvest mix that was used to highlight the sash.

The blue pants on the left were darkened by a wash of dark blue, then highlighted up again , to slightly lighter than the original blue.

The feathers were base coated in slate grey, and the wood weapon handles were base coated in minatour fur brown. the armband on the right figure was painted with Mississippi mud (lighter brown)

The armband and weapon handles were given a black wash. This will really help bring out the wood grain texture on the axe handle. (Normally I don't bother with the wash, but instead highlight with barbarian leather or some other lighter shade of brown. However, I wanted a really dark wood for these figures)

I painted the jewelry, spikes and weapon ends on both figures antique gold.

I dry brushed the feathers white, then used a very thinned out burgundy to paint the tips of the feathers (as if they were dipped in blood!)

Drybrushing is a technique where one dips the brush in paint, then wipes off all but the tiniest bit. Then, simply drag the brush over a textured area. The paint will only be left behind on the raised areas. It takes a while to be able to judge the right amount of paint, but it becomes automatic after much practice. 

First I highlighted the wood with minotaur fur brown, with a tiny bit of barbarian leather mixed in. Again, I want to keep the wood dark.

I painted the weapon blades a chainmail/gunmetal color. 

Actually it's my own mix in an old Coat d'arms paint pot... silver and black mixed until it reached just the right color. I like to use mixed colors (not straight out of the jar). If you can't find that "just right" color, you can always mix your own. If you plan on using it a lot, mix a whole jar ahead of time so that you maintain a consistent color.

First I did a black ink wash on all of the gunmetal. I then highlighted along the "sharp" edges with bright silver. I was very careful to paint only the raised edges of the serrated edge of the Goblin King's sword.

I painted the decorative bits on the axe with metallic green, then carefully went over it again with green ink, to deepen the color.

The bases will be detailed in step 10...

The first thing I do with any slotted base is patch any exposed parts of the slot. I just glue a small strip of paper over it, but you can also use putty to fill it.

In the case of the Goblin King, I cut some bristles from a cheap 2" paint brush from the hardware store. I put a small dab of super glue gel on the base, then stuck the bristles on the glue. After about 30 seconds, I tipped the figure upside-down, to get the bristles to straighten up. I held the figure like this for about 60 seconds longer.

I then cover the base with glue, and dip the base into a small container of mixed sand. When this had dried somewhat (not completely), I shoved it around a bit with a toothpick, to give an uneven texture.

I then painted the entire base with Mississippi mud. When this was dry, I dry brushed the textured areas with a mix of the original color and antique white.

When all of this was dry, I put a few spots of white glue on the base using a toothpick, and dipped the base in a container of mixed green flock.

I then added more bristles, laying on their side, to the Goblin King's base, making it look like he was trampling the grass with his forward foot.

The mushrooms on the Hobgoblin's base were pre-made. I sometimes take left over "green stuff" (sculpting putty) and roll it into little cone shapes, which are stuck on to various sized wires and toothpicks, and left to dry. They can then be added to bases , like I did here.